Certain eateries display their inspirations subtly. In contrast, some openly pay tribute to beloved cuisines from close by and afar. JollyGood finds motivation from particular spots in Melbourne and North America, along with the iconic diner genre as a whole, before shaping a distinctive experience of its own.
At once familiar and new, it's effortlessly enjoyable. The cuisine and beverages are refined without being pretentious, and considered yet not overly complex. It stands as a clever, cheerfully imitative response to the query "What does Melbourne crave presently?"
The menu offers a carefully selected array of classic American diner dishes, pub-style gourmet favorites, expertly crafted cocktails, independent wines, and special additions like rock oysters.
A JollyGood patron could visit on Monday afternoon craving an enhanced toasted sandwich. They may return on Thursdays with friends to enjoy their steak night along with unlimited complimentary fries. Perhaps they will drop by alone after work to savor a well-deserved Friday evening Negroni. On Sundays, they might come accompanied by family—either mom and dad or children—to indulge in hearty portions of buttermilk pancakes alongside crispy yet juicy fried chicken at the center of the table. Everyone can then douse it all in maple syrup as lively chatter and joyful commotion fill the air.
The sense of 'see you later' is tied into what makes this dining establishment special. This vibe is reflected through cozy seating options like plush banquettes, a shared central table, and a bar area where servers can easily deliver an additional pitcher of Barbera wine or a piece of tangy yet creamy key lime pie with just as much ease.
The intricacies are remarkable: evocative American nostalgia, Venetian blinds, window signage, and fluted glass panels can transform your visit into feeling as though you're stepping into an art print or weaving yourself into a grand narrative of solitude or romance. (Merchandise is available too; JollyGood encourages customers not just to enjoy the cuisine but also to embrace the brand itself.)
JollyGood Diner & Bar originated from chef-owner Raphael Exton Pery’s sandwich popup concept aimed at brightening up lengthy pandemic-induced lockdowns. While sandwiches remain central—featuring Australian cheese and salads, as well as New York-style deli meats during daytime hours—the evening menu offers roast beef served with gravy for dipping. This permanent establishment is jointly owned by Exton Pery along with his partner, Meg McAulay. open since January 2024, aspires to evolve into a refined dining destination, serving as both a lunchroom, dinner venue, and bar. (For those who favor sandwiches, there’s a JollyGood truck located at Rocky Ridge Brewery in Brunswick during weekends.)
Exton Pery has gained experience in both high-end restaurants and wine bars, and he was also part of the initial crew at Gimlet. Leveraging his extensive local connections, he brings sophistication to the establishment, ensuring that the burgers come from Meatsmith—where I particularly enjoy the crispy texture around their well-made smashed cheeseburgers—and Rockwell & Sons' ex-co-owner Casey Wall assisted in crafting the perfect fluffy pancake recipe.
Wizards hailing from the Caretaker’s Cottage provided insights into cocktail creations, featuring a bread-and-butterm pickle martini which essentially acts as an adorably presented version of a Gibson (a traditional martini accompanied by a pickled onion).
JollyGood similarly gives a nod to the underground lounge Bar Margaux in the CBD. recently closed ), and Los Angeles' All Day Baby (which has also unfortunately closed down) — the latter shared a comparable "endless coffee today, afternoon drinking tomorrow, pie anytime" kind of atmosphere.
When it comes to coffee, fear not if your perfect slow-drip filter isn’t quite right for you; JollyGood understands and won’t mind if you bring a take-away flat white from the nearby Terror Twilight café. What a friendly, practical, and considerate policy!
I noticed a few instances where the presentation overshadowed the content. For example, the prawn cocktail appears attractive and has pleasant flavors when you manage to reach them. However, struggling with dipping the sweet shrimp into a small bowl made it feel like the dish was more about aesthetics than enjoying a straightforward meal.
The single element a retro diner cannot add is the patina of age, which truly gives such spots their charm. Perhaps it falls upon everyone to cultivate it, gradually transforming it into a cozy Melbourne-style eating area with each cup of coffee – one deli-dip sandwich, one piece of pie – served at a time.
The Good Food reviews are conducted anonymously and compensated separately. Restaurants cannot purchase a review or secure inclusion in the guide. Good Food Guide .
