In all of Australia, perhaps just one chef—Philippa Sibleya—would refer to a poorly executed salad as being "too friendly, rubbing up against you like it's trying to reach the dining room." While I've never experienced such affection from my leafy greens before, her description captures exactly how disconcertingly amorous an ill-prepared salad can feel when served.
A salad might appear unkempt or disheveled, and sometimes overly enthusiastic, much like a drooling, lazy Labrador. However, her Friendly Salad ($12) at Pinotta maintains composure. Each leaf is carefully chosen for its neat twist and vibrant freshness; it’s lively without being overpowering.
The gentle yet firm focus bestowed upon a side dish reflects this renowned chef's deep connection to the art of cuisine preparation. Since embarking on her professional culinary journey in 1989, Sibley has spent some time honing her skills in Europe; however, she primarily established herself in Melbourne. Throughout her career, she has lent her expertise to various establishments such as Tansy’s, Est Est Est, Luxe, Ondine, Circa the Prince, Prix Fixe, Albert Street Food & Wine, Syracuse, and more recently, Hero located at Federation Square.
She hasn't created an empire. Her approach doesn't seem very calculated. It’s puzzling how she ended up known mainly for pastries when she excels at making some of the finest duck sauce around. However, one thing is certain: everywhere she goes, folks leave with smiles after tasting her cooking.
The delightful bistro called Pinotta perfectly suits the wandering nature of Pip Sibley. Heidi Modra launched this eatery 13 years back, managing it much like a neighborhood general store might operate in a rural township—perhaps reminiscent of Cummins located in South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, where she spent her formative years. Shoppers often stroll past and pause for warm embraces. The local children frequently present her with drawings they've made. Her strong sense of community acts as both an attraction and comfort to those around her.
Once a graphic designer looking for roles with greater personal interaction, she has navigated the challenges of the tough hospitality industry. She found stability at this 50-seater eatery featuring a bustling front bar and a compact central kitchen. This setup requires guests to pass by as they move towards the back dining area where lively conversations often take place.
The local restaurant owner felt daunted when Sibley was proposed as her subsequent chef. However, they bonded over their shared conviction about the dignity involved in taking care of patrons in eateries and through music. During their discussion for the position, Modra spun a vinyl record. Where Are You Baby? By the English rapper Betty Boo. "Instead of spinning it at 45 rpm, I play it at 33 rpm," Modra shared with me. "It ends up being a slowed-down, mesmerizing rendition of a typical '90s track."
It's amazing how Sibley became known mainly as a pastry chef when she actually creates one of the finest duck sauces around town.
Last spring, Sibley began their journey, and this partnership with Pinotta has become an incredibly successful time. The atmosphere within exudes positive vibes; the service quality has improved significantly, the wine selection is lively and enjoyable, and the culinary offerings now have a distinct character. Every day, Sibley informs Modra about today’s dishes, after which Modra takes the time to meticulously pen each dish onto a menu. This document gradually transforms into a stained record filled with splashes from Sibley’s array of wines, capturing his signature recipes over time.
The cuisine features Provincial French and Italian flavors, brimming with intricate elements that enhance the enjoyment. The focaccia ($8) is crafted in the Puglian style, incorporating warm potatoes into the dough. Each oyster ($6) is opened with meticulous care and reverence.
The menu features arancini priced at $8, potentially paired with pumpkin slow-roasted to enhance its natural sweetness. For the fennel salad costing $26, blood oranges will be precisely segmentedin a manner reminiscent of laser-cut perfection.
The confit duck priced at $48 is delicately seasoned with aromatic spices and lightly salted, complemented by an exquisite jus. While certain meat sauces can be as sticky as being mired in a swamp, this sauce flows smoothly, much like frolicking happily through a small pool of refreshing spring water.
The tiramisu ($18) gets an upgrade with a twist: my serving included a layer of hazelnut sponge, transforming this classic nanna recipe into a sophisticated fine-dining treat.
You'd imagine that with so much experience, a chef would truly excel at her craft; the real fortune is that she remains passionate about it.
Consider the tonnarelli ($45), a lengthy noodle dish colored black using squid ink. These noodles are mixed with nettle-infused butter enriched with baked prawn shells for flavor. Small pieces of prawns are added into this mix as well. While the seafood ought to take center stage, it's actually the nettle that leaves an impression—its vibrant green hue contrasting beautifully against the darker pasta, providing a striking yet unassuming taste experience that is richly satisfying.
We might debate whether cooking should be considered a craft or an art form, but another factor clarifies this easily. Several years back, Sibley sought a pastime with less mess involved compared to cooking. She purchased pencils from Coles, began sketching, and soon realized she had quite the talent for it. The intricate drawings of shellfish, artichokes, and grapes that she creates are remarkable; you can see some of these artworks displayed on the walls around here.
Is it too much to ponder the intersection of sautéing and sketching? It lies perhaps in the concept of restraint, recognizing when a work is complete. Using simple elements like heat, salt, green, and grey can transform the ordinary into the extraordinary.
This evaluation was initially released in Good Weekend magazine
